Natural and synthetic materials are used in the making of clothing and accessories. The debate opposing these two major families of materials remains one of the most important in the fashion industry. How can they be distinguished, and which should you choose?
NATURAL MATERIALS VS. SYNTHETIC MATERIALS: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
Natural and synthetic materials differ in the origin of the raw materials that make up their fibers.
Natural materials: Natural materials are fibers of plant or animal origin. Among the most well-known are cotton, linen, silk, and wool. They are naturally produced and do not require chemical processes to be transformed. Most of the time, they have thermoregulating and breathable properties, making them the most comfortable for the person wearing them.
Synthetic materials: Synthetic materials are fibers of petrochemical origin. They are made from petroleum and are therefore related to plastic, which is used in other industries. Examples include polyester, elastane, and acrylic. These materials are inexpensive and easy to manufacture, which is why they are so widespread in the fashion industry.
WHICH TYPE OF MATERIAL SHOULD I PRIORITIZE IN MY WARDROBE?
In most cases, the best fibers are natural ones. They allow the body to regulate its temperature more easily and let the skin breathe. However, very sensitive skin may not always be comfortable in contact with wool, which can sometimes feel unpleasant to wear. If other types of wool (cashmere, mohair, angora, etc.) cannot reduce irritation, it may then be worth turning to other types of fibers.
Synthetic fibers are interesting from a care perspective. Most garments made from synthetic fibers can be machine-washed at 30°C and are often less prone to wrinkling. However, it is important to keep in mind that these materials also wear out faster and may, in the long run, end up costing more due to a higher replacement frequency compared to garments made from natural materials.
WHICH ARE MORE POLLUTING: NATURAL OR SYNTHETIC MATERIALS?
Synthetic materials are generally more polluting than natural materials because of their origin: petroleum. These materials therefore generate pollution during their manufacturing process.
It is also important to take into account the pollution they create throughout their lifespan.
With every wash, microplastic particles detach from the fibers and end up in the washing machine’s rinse water, then in the water treatment system, and consequently in the water we drink, as well as the water released back into nature.
After being worn, when the garment is discarded, it unfortunately continues to pollute. Because it is made from plastic-based materials, it can neither biodegrade naturally nor be easily recycled without once again creating new pollution.
Synthetic materials therefore pollute from the moment they are created, and long after we have finished wearing them.
However, be careful: not all natural materials are environmentally friendly.
For example, wearing cotton is theoretically ecological. But most cotton, if it is not organic, is grown on the other side of the world in countries that allow the use of highly polluting pesticides. These are cocktails of pesticides sprayed on cotton fields to increase yields. These same fibers are then worn directly on our skin. In this case, it is better to prioritize organic cotton.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF NATURAL MATERIALS?
Natural materials have several characteristics that make them preferable when choosing clothing.
Thermoregulation: Thermoregulation is the process by which the body regulates its temperature. When this process does not function properly, we feel either very cold or very hot, without being able to return to a normal body temperature. A concrete example: in the middle of winter, when it is 4°C outside and you enter a building heated to 20°C, the temperature change is sudden. You start sweating without actually adapting to this new temperature. The effect is even more unpleasant when you go back outside and your body struggles to warm itself up again. Natural materials help the body regulate its temperature more easily, thus improving comfort.
Breathability: When the skin is covered with a layer of plastic that has no micro-ventilation, it suffocates. This is partly why the body has such difficulty regulating its temperature when wearing synthetic materials. Natural materials allow the skin to breathe, helping to reduce irritation and the feeling of suffocation in hot weather. In addition, this ventilation allows the bacteria present in sweat to escape rather than remain trapped in an airless environment. No more bad odors!
Environmental respect: Any production of a new garment is a source of pollution. However, if we can limit pollution to the creation of clothing and reduce pollution related to garment care, replacement frequency, or the inability to reuse them, it still represents a significant reduction in our ecological footprint. Natural materials are biodegradable and therefore help reduce the volume of waste that remains intact over the years.
ARE THERE SITUATIONS IN WHICH SYNTHETIC MATERIALS REMAIN THE BEST CHOICE?
When looking at technical fabrics, often used in extreme situations—sports, extreme cold or heat—synthetics are most often the material of choice.
Indeed, to prevent chafing caused by friction during sports, to promote quick-drying fabrics such as swimwear, or to stay dry despite heavy rain, it may be preferable to set natural materials aside.
However, there are innovations that make it possible to move away from polyester, which remains a polluting material both for the environment and for our bodies. Among these innovations is lyocell.
THERE IS A THIRD CATEGORY OF MATERIALS, ARTIFICIAL MATERIALS, HOW ARE THEY DIFFERENT?
Artificial materials are fibers created through a chemical process from plant-based raw materials. They are neither synthetic nor natural, but somewhere in between. Examples include viscose and lyocell.
The manufacturing methods of each material make them more or less respectful of the environment and our bodies. The overall manufacturing process is similar: raw materials are transformed into wood pulp, then immersed in chemical baths to turn them into fibers, which are then used to weave fabrics.
What differentiates viscose from lyocell is the level of toxicity of the solvents used to produce their fibers.
Viscose is a fabric created using highly toxic solvents, which also raise ethical concerns regarding the people who manufacture it and may be exposed to these substances without adequate protective equipment. A new type of viscose now exists: ECOVERO®. If choosing viscose, this option is preferable, as its manufacturing process uses significantly less water than that of traditional viscose.
Lyocell is made using less toxic solvents, which are used in a closed-loop process to limit pollution. In addition, this fabric has absorbent and breathable properties, making it useful for creating sportswear, for example. It is the artificial material closest to natural fibers and should therefore be prioritized both for its environmental impact and its properties.
